A Theravādin Buddhist's Blog

Commentarios Siamensis - Thai Memoirs

2011-09-25T09:16:00.001-07:00

A compendium of thoughts, impressions, experiences and insights covering my two years as an English teacher in Surin, NE Thailand. Coming soon...

2011-09-22T10:38:00.000-07:00

Buddhist Pilgrimage to India

When embarking on any kind of journey farfrom one’s homeland and into unknown territory, there is without doubt acertain amount of trepidation and anxiety surrounding the thoughts of what mayor may not transpire. Moreover, the mind itself tends to work overtime with itsimaginings and concerns. On this occasion the pilgrim, me, was alreadyreasonably well travelled and at ease with Indian customs having previouslyspent a limited but insightful period working voluntarily in the Himalayanregion of Northern India. This journey however, would unlike that previous oneso well documented in 2009, be totally motivated by a deep appreciation forthat sagacious teacher & His dispensation we refer to as the Buddha and theDhamma.

By paying my last respects to the lateLuang Ta Maha Bua (a highly revered and accomplished meditation master in theForest Tradition of Northeast Thailand) on the day preceding the cremationpresided over by Queen Sirikit, I was in a suitably gladdened state of mind tobegin the trip to India; the land of the Buddha. On arrival in Delhi &following a sleepless overnight stay in the terminal for the connecting flightto Patna (the capital of Bihar) I was keen to make my way towards that placewhere, sat under a ficus religiosa tree around 2600 years ago, a greatbeing penetrated the cloud of dust obscuring the sight of all humanity andbeyond. That place is known presently as Bodh Gaya (ancient Uruvela) andis about two and a half hours or so south (depending on your mode of transportand pot luck) from the sprawling Bihar State capital of Patna. This particularbus journey took five hours due to various unforeseen circumstances such as abag tumbling from the roof and causing a great commotion between localvillagers and the distraught owner who was unable to retrieve it and also theuntimely loosening of a wheel, no doubt due to the enthusiastic and adventurousdriver. Nonetheless, I was in my element and the presence of a small TV playinglocal Indian music and the sights and smells of Bihar passing by were allsetting the scene quite nicely.

Noting the dry, rocky hills at Gaya Istarted to feel that I was approaching or indeed passing right through an areathat must have seen a great ebb and flow of human history over the ages. Itjust has the look of being well-used, rugged & almost severe in the bakingsun of the Ganges plains. Taking an auto rickshaw for the final leg of thejourney to the holy site proper, one is transported to a place quite unlike anyother.

Dusk & a full moon at the Maha Bodhi
Temple

The Maha Bodhi Temple

The Maha Bodhi Temple marks the site of theenlightenment of the Buddha and is thus one of the main four pilgrimage sitesrecommended by the Buddha himself as a place of pilgrimage inspiring faith. Itis built right on the spot where Siddhartha Gautama attained supreme unsurpassedenlightenment whilst sitting under the Bodhi tree. A descendant of the originaltree grows directly behind the ancient structure, a cutting of which broughtback from previous cuttings taken to and preserved in Sri Lanka centuriesearlier. Here one can observe many devotional stupas, carvings, ancient remainsfrom former pilgrims and all the identifiable sites mentioned in the suttas(the discourses of the Buddha and his disciples). It’s an awesome and deeplypowerful place. To sit and contemplate those timeless truths and reflect in thesame vicinity as Lord Buddha is beyond words in all truth. Just to observe andreflect on the many traditions represented by the various sanghas(Buddhist monastics) circumambulating the stupa, prostrating according to theirparticular tradition or just contemplating in serene quietude is really a mostbeautiful experience. Many are drawn to this place, well-known as the ‘navel ofthe earth’, its effect is profound and ever more so if one has a soundknowledge of the scriptures. Being the most sacred site for Buddhists on thisearth, I felt an inclination to stay for a longer period (in relation to thefull time frame for travel in India of one month or so) and I eventually partedafter seven days. This was also partly due to the Holi festivalcelebrated by Hindus and thereby rendering all public transport out of servicefor its duration. My daily routine at the site consisted of rising early beforesunrise to join the throng of pilgrims ambling towards the temple compound topay their early morning respects and meditate in the cool, deeply peacefulatmosphere. At this time the moon can often still be seen shining down over thesurrounding tree canopies and devotional structures creating an environment ofserene piety. As the light of dawn appears, so do the sounds of birds and otheranimals dwelling within the sanctuary space; a haven for all creatures and, inmany ways, an island of security amid the trials and tribulations of rural lifein Bihar. By the time the sun is up, young Tibetan novice monks bringtraditional Tibetan bread around to the monks, nuns and laypeople and is awelcome breakfast. Gradually, more and more people arrive at the temple; manyresiding in local temples or guesthouses whilst others are arriving by coach.The heat of the morning sun begins to warm the air and I found it quitecomfortable to find a shaded spot to sit and read the discourses for a while.Often choosing a different spot within the compound I tried to sit in variousplaces associated with certain events during the night of awakening and theaftermath. There is always ample opportunity to quieten the mind, reflect onthe qualities of the triple gem (Buddha, Dhamma, Sangha) or observe the law of anicca(impermanence/change) within the body itself, out in the natural environment ofthe trees and weather patterns or just introspectively within the mind. I foundit a very supportive place for these sorts of reflections. To know that it waswithin this vicinity that the heart of the realizations of all the teachings ofthe Buddha was established.

Rugged hills close to Bodh Gaya

Over the seven day period I was able tomeet with local monastics, other visitors and even help feed the poorcongregating at the temple’s entrance. My friend, a local monk, took me to thecave where, prior to the awakening experience, Siddhartha Gautama had spent sixyears undergoing harsh penance or asceticism in his spiritual struggle forliberation from the endless wandering from life to life that is samsara(going round in a circle/repeated birth, ageing, sickness, death, rebirth etc.).There was a presence in that cave I could not describe in words; the blackenedinterior and guilded statue of the Bodhisatta (Buddha-to-be) created a solemnspace to meditate. The conditions were arid outside and the jutting backbone ofrugged cliffs arched round in a crescent moon shape with Bodh Gaya villagevisible across the farmland in the distance. A stop at Sujata’s Stupa was apleasant experience nearby; the site supposedly was where she was living at thetime that she offered the Buddha some nourishing milk rice.

My final night consisted of a potato dinnerwithin the construction site of a grand new Tibetan monastery due to open inthe near future. I imagine it will be a great place of learning for many yearsto come. The following morning I proceeded to Rajgir by bus.

<><><><><><>

Vulture's Peak, Rajgir

Rajgir

Rajgir (ancient Rajagaha) was thesite of many of the discourses of the Buddha and the former capital of Magadha,a Republic of ancient India. The Buddha often spent the three month rainsretreat (vassa) in the vicinity of Vulture's Peak (Griddhakuta)overlooking the city (now long vanished). The cable car up to the peak is anexhilarating if not unnerving ride. The view from the top of the ridge is justspectacular with visibility stretching over the whole valley surrounded by thefamous five hills of Rajgir (now topped by gleaming white Jain shrines). Towander amongst the rocky outcrop where the Buddha used to teach alongside hisdisciples and even royalty was in itself a great honour. My special moment wassitting on the peak within a raised brick foundation of an ancient edifice(perhaps the exact spot were the Buddha once sat) and meditating a short whileand reading a discourse delivered by the Buddha in that same place. To havethat experience was incredibly moving and it touches my heart even to this day.

The horse-drawn cart, which brought me fromthe modern town to the foot of the hill, also stopped by many archaeological remains; I saw Bimbisara’sjail, the mangrove donated by Migara’s mother (Viśākhā) and various other remains scattered about the place. The whole citywas surrounded by a colossal wall, the lower portion of which still exists today.It’s pleasant to wander around the Bamboo Grove/Squirrel’s feeding place (Venuvana),often mentioned in the scriptures as the place where the Buddha used to batheand deliver discourses, and is a good place for reflection. Regretfully, I didnot make it to the Satapanni Cave where the First Council was held (next timeperhaps?).

Nalanda

Ruins of Nalanda University

The ruins of Nalanda, the ancient Buddhist universityof India, are a short journey away and are a wonderful spot for appreciatingthe great centre of learning that it once was. There are some fascinatingedifices here and expansive accommodations, classrooms, libraries and viharasas well as the stupa raised over the relics of Venerable Sāriputta, one of the chief disciples of the Buddha.

Varanasi

Chunari Baba & I in Varanasi

The mother of India, Gangaji or theGanges in English, flows smoothly through the heart of Varanasi, the mostsacred city of the Hindus. This is not the place for the faint hearted. It is aresilient place, a place that echoes the voices of the past, present and futurelike the seemingly eternal expanse of space and its unknowable worlds. In themodern era Varanasi is a window into the ancient culture of the Indian peoplesand a living testament of their devotion and connectedness with nature, life,death and samsara. From the bathing pilgrims at dawn, the vibrantfervour of the evening religious ceremonies to the stark scenes of cremationson the water’s edge, this city is a continuous recycling process of what camebefore. From the time the Buddha arrived on its banks en route to the Deer Parkat Sarnath (Isipatana) this city, often known as Kasi, Benares et al,has also had an intimate relationship with the legacy of the Buddha’sdispensation. However, this is largely obscured in modern times; absorbed intothe agglomeration.

To experience this place is to feel itwithin and without and writing on a page barely does it any justice, so thiswill suffice until you’re there yourself.

Frescoe depicting the conversion of
the notorious murderer, Angulimala

Sarnath

Sarnath, (Isipatana or ‘theresort of the fallen sages’) is the deer park a short distance fromVaranasi where the Buddha came to preach the first sermon, theDhammacakkapavattana Sutta, “The Discourse of the Setting in Motion of theWheel of Law”. It is one of the four main pilgrimage sites for Buddhists. Today,in order to enter the site, one must pay an entrance fee thus restricting thepilgrims to a single visit in most cases and as a result the ability to performones religious observances at the site is very difficult. This is a great pityand the Indian government should be pressed to lift this charge on the Buddhistpilgrimage site. No other religious site of this nature is subject to such acharge in India so there is no reason why it should be imposed here. Thataside, the remains of the Dhamekh Stupa are breath-taking. It is a powerfulmonument to the great teachings first expounded within the vicinity. It isindeed a great support to ones confidence in the Buddha and his teachings whenseeing these sites. To observe the exquisite Japanese frescoes within theMulgandha Kuti Vihar and pay ones respects to the relics bestowed there is anawe-inspiring moment. I was kindly invited to reside at a local Tibetanmonastery during my two day stay. Sitting within the quietude of the deer parkis a deeply peaceful experience and ideal for reading over and reflecting onthe First Sermon.

Ancient Buddha image depicting the mahaparanibbana

Kushinagar

Kushinagar (Kusinara) is again oneof the four main pilgrimage sites as recommended by the Buddha. Here the Lord laid down on his right sidebetween two sal trees blooming out of season and uttered his last words: “"Listen,Bhikkhus, I say this: all conditioned things are subject to decay, strive withdiligence for your liberation". He then passed into meditationalabsorptions (jhana) and entered final liberation with no remainder (Mahaparinibbana).The dates differ between traditions but one date for this event is said to bebetween 544-543 B.C. According to one Buddhist text, when he passed away, ‘theearth shook, stars shot from the heavens, the sky in the 10 directions burstforth in flames and the air filled with celestial music.’ Whether or not thisis true is unknowable to us but there is a special ambience here quite unlikeany of the other sites I had visited previously. The breeze has a sweet, headyfragrance of flowers and calmness pervades the entire area. I spent many anhour in meditation amongst the crumbling remains over the few days I stayedhere, always with a deep sense of reverence and peace which I found arosespontaneously.

Site of the Buddha's funeral pyre

Kushinagaris a small place at present, quite far out into the countryside of UttarPradesh. There is one main road which passes quietly through the village; atone end is the village centre with its adjoining compound of ruins and moderninternational temples whilst at the other is the revered stupa raised over thefuneral pyre of the Buddha; the former crowning place of the Licchavi kings ofthis ancient republic.

Irecommend going here whether Buddhist or not. A momentous event in humanhistory took place amongst this simple farming community, the legacy of whichreaches us today.

Lunch with a Vietnamese nun at her orphanage in Lumbini

Ialso express my deepest gratitude to the head nun at the Vietnamese Temple withwhom I stayed during my visit and who so kindly drove me all the way across toLumbini in Nepal. Thank you for inviting me to your lovely orphanage – the childrenare so well cared for and so happy!

Serene parkland surrounding the Buddha's birthplace

Lumbini

Lumbini, on the Nepalese side of the borderwith India, is the final pilgrimage site on my tour of the big four. This iswhere, 80 years or so prior to His passing away just to the south of here atKusinara, the Bodhisatta was born into the warrior (Kshatriya) clan to QueenMaha Maya. At that time, it was a pleasure grove of the Mallas and following adream of a white elephant touching her womb, she gave birth whilst standingholding the branch of a sala tree for support. It is said the new born childtook seven steps, a lotus springing forth from each spot his foot touched theground, and exclaimed "I am chief of the world, Eldest am Iin the world, Foremost am I in the world. This is the last birth. There is nowno more coming to be."

Two Nepalese girls run through meadows
Lumbini

Today thepark is being heavily developed by overseas investors (mainly China) to attractever larger numbers of pilgrims and tourists. There are temples, monasteries andretreat centres representing every country and tradition. Some ancient, somecontemporary but mainly, all very grand! Nonetheless, the well landscapedparkland remains an inspiring and natural looking place. It’s quite possible toamble solitarily through the lush, verdant groves replanted as part of thedevelopment project. I found my early morning visits to the centralarchaeological remains particularly inspiring. A cool mist shrouds the delicatefoliage of the Himalayan flora and wild animals abound. Soft light filtersthrough the overhanging branches of Bodhi trees and creates shafts of smokylight upon the dewy tufts of grass. The place is so evocative of the scene ofthe birth it’s easy to imagine the scene rolling out two and a half millennia before.

After anumber of very enjoyable days residing at the vast Korean Temple, where I metnumerous fellow ‘seekers’, I left the traditional pilgrimage route towards theHimalayan city of Pokhara passing along mountain roads and isolated Nepalivillages. I travelled here with my Norwegian comrade Karuna (Edvard).

Pokhara

Local kids in Pokhara's old city

Pokhara is a citynestled below the mighty backdrop of the Annapurna Range of mountains in theHimalayas. It is an ancient city with a modern heartbeat and a thriving travelersscene. I opted for a country guesthouse overlooking the Phewa Tal (Phewa Lake);a place I particularly liked as it was so reminiscent of the English LakeDistrict in many ways. My week here consisted of mountain hikes, early morningmeditation overlooking the beautiful lake and World Peace Pagoda and occasionaldescents into town for a few tastes of the international feel of the touristy lakesidearea.

Here is where I met mybeloved travel companion for the next month or so, Georgia.

Exquisite architecture in Patan

Kathmandu

Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital,is a chaotic, crazy and cramped sort of place. It’s a crossroads of the new andthe old, the tourist and the local, the sober and the intoxicated. A city whereyou can get anything but rarely have the official freedom to do so. Thecity proper has a number of satellite towns now well within its urban sprawl.UNESCO world heritage sites such as Patan and Bhaktapur whizz you back into a medievalworld of temples, windy alleyways and tipsy wooden buildings. They are awashwith ancient traditions, bizarre carvings and grizzly rites of animal sacrifice.The craftsmanship of many of the artisans in the humble workshops throughoutthese towns is sensational and the local culinary delicacies, such as curd, areperfected to the first degree.

Boudhanath Stupa

The real crowningjewel of Kathmandu however, is the gigantesque Boudhanath Stupa in Bouddha. Theultimate symbol and verification that I was really in Nepal is this imposingstructure of gargantuan proportions. The piercing eyes of the Buddhasymbolically see all and gaze down at you from every angle whilst thousands of brightlycoloured prayer flags flutter in the breeze emanating from the four cardinaldirections around the stupa. All day long from dawn until dusk thousands ofdevotees religiously circumambulate this ancient dome just as they would havedone throughout the ages since the early days of the Silk Route across Tibet,Bhutan, India and China.

I spent many a dayvisiting the Swayambhunath (Monkey) Temple upon the summit of another hill closeby. There the sunsets and heart touchingviews across the Kathmandu Valley are a memory that I’ll cherish forever. Mydearest friend Georgia endured much hardship for almost two weeks at this time.Happily this finally passed and we went on our way towards the Eastern borderwith India via Janakpur in the Terai region of Southern Nepal.

Site of the marriage of Rama & Sita

Janakpur

Janakpur became anunexpected gem for Georgia and me, as we made our epic journey across Nepal.Enduring many hours of cramped hot conditions, bus changes, high altitude roadsand various dramatic events on the bus such as a Nepali girl passing in and outof consciousness due to an eye problem and with much distress from her familyto local villagers clambering onto the bus intending to fight with a fellowpassenger, we finally made it half way stopping in the sacred city of Janakpur.Happily, we met a couple of other stranded travelers who were as equally caughtunawares when we learnt of an impending bus strike thereby rendering us allstranded in Janakpur.

Making the most of ourpredicament, we decided to explore the town and to our surprise we came acrossthe site of the marriage of Rama and Sita according to Hindu legend and thus agreat pilgrimage site with many colourful temples and postulants coming fromall across Hindu Nepal and India. By the end of the day and after many mosquitobites we learnt that there would be a night bus towards the border town of Kakkarbhitaso we braved it, against the advice of the travel guides, and with greatrelief, survived the night and crossed back into lush West Bengal in NortheastIndia.

Darjeeling

When I used to thinkof Darjeeling, it would conjure up images of grand Victorian villas, statelytea plantations and high tea with English porcelain. Alas, those days are gone;the town largely engulfed by the standard urban sprawl seen in many Indiancities of the modern sort. Nonetheless, there are vestiges of those old days ofEmpire lingering among the modern conurbation. The Lloyd Botanic Gardens are adelight and the old steam railway linking the low hills with the hill stationis still fully functioning. The town has many tea shops where you can samplethe local brew and the standard of English spoken here is outstanding. Viewsfrom the upper parts of town are quite phenomenal and, whilst the weather andlocal architecture is distinctly English in many ways, there is a strongeclectic feel these days and the Indians are proudly claiming this charming, ifnot a little moth-eaten city, as their own. We watched the Royal wedding ofPrince William and Catherine Middleton with a small group of fellow Britons; itbrought a tear to the eye!

Sikkim

Tibetan ceremony at Rumtek Monastery

Sikkim is a uniqueplace. An independent kingdom until recent times the Himalayan seat hasrendered her isolated for centuries and thus she harbours a unique culture moresimilar to those of Tibet, Bhutan and Nepal. Here I resided at the TibetanRumtek Monastery in a very congenial place for meditation. Fresh mountain air,lush Himalayan forest, the aroma of wild orchids on the wind and hearty Tibetanfair made for an unforgettable stay. A permit is needed to enter but, happily,this is free and just a formality.

Victoria Memorial - Kolkata

Kolkata

Rejoining Georgia, whoI left behind in Darjeeling, we made our way by train towards Kolkata, the cityof Mother Teresa. Whilst our visit was literally a whistle-stop tour of thegleaming Victoria Memorial en route to our connecting train station, it waswell worth the effort to get to and really made my trip that bit more special(it had been a longtime wish of mine to someday see it).

Patna

View from the granary over the edge of Patna towards
the Ganges

Finally, I said farewellto my trusty comrade Georgia and alighted at Patna Junction. My second stop inPatna, the capital of Bihar State, I knew that it would be a chaotic visit but,for me, it represented my relinking up with the official pilgrimage route I hadembarked on two months earlier. I had come full circle, so to speak. After along time wandering in the oppressive heat trying to find a hotel that wouldaccept a foreigner (some local bureaucratic problem), I managed to find aplace. The following day I toured the city, saw the British granary built toavert famine and the Patna Museum; a great collection of artifacts from theGanges plains. The view from the top of the beehive shaped granary affordsdramatic views of the sudden edge of the city and the immense stretch of floodplain alongside the Ganges which passes directly through the heart of thisancient city. Like Varanasi, Patna has had an illustrious history being one ofthe oldest continuously inhabited places in the world and, as to be expected,has been known by many different names (Pataliputra during the time ofthe Buddha). The earliest mention of this city is in Jain and Buddhistscriptures dating back around 2500 years.

Before leaving, I paidmy respects to the relics of the Buddha enshrined by H.H. The Dalai Lama in thenew modern stupa in the city centre and made my way out by local transport toVaishali (ancient Vesali) one of the first republics in the world.

Vaishali

The Ananda Stupa beside the Asokan Pillar

Like ancient Rajagaha,the city has totally succumbed to the laws of impermanence and is barely visibleat ground level. However, since British archaeologists uncovered ancientremains here during the 19^th century, there has been extensivesurveying of the area revealing the layout of a city still quite hidden fromview beneath the flat arable land tended by local farmers. At the ancientcoronation tank of the Licchavi clan however, there are the remains of anancient stupa which once contained the relics of the Buddha and further afieldare the excavated remains of the Ananda Stupa where the relics of the Buddha’sattendant, Venerable Ananda, are enshrined. The Ashokan pillar marks the spot,with its impressive lion capital facing north towards Kushinagar, beside themound. Recent archaeological digs are revealing so much beneath the surface. Ipeered into a number of the newly dug trenches and saw wonders I would expectto see in Rome or Egypt; without doubt a great civilization once flourishedthere.

Amazing Bihari school trippers!

At the white SantiStupa in Vaishali I met a group of excitable Bihari school children on a tripto their local heritage sites, many of which had never met a westerner beforeand, much to my surprise and glee, were able to speak the most eloquent English.They were extremely friendly and hospitable and meeting the proud teachers wasas much as an honour for me as it seemed to be for them. Their smiles and warmwelcome made an unforgettable impression on me, such kind openheartedness amidthe vastness of Bihar State (whose reputation is of being backward andundeveloped) was one of the most touching things I have ever experienced. Ifound, in fact, a highly refined people with natural intelligence and a look ofreal joy in their faces. This show of kindness extended to the local staff ofthe archaeological museum who offered to drive me out into the distantcountryside to see the immense Kesariya Stupa.

Meditation on top of the Kesariya Stupa

The Kesariya Stupa isone of the tallest Buddhist structures in the world and stands half buriedunder a wooded hill. The other half having been excavated by archaeologists; it’sa sight to behold. The stupa was raised to commemorate where the dying Buddhadonated his alms bowl to the Licchavis before going on towards Kushinagar. Thestructure is arranged in the shape of a giant mandala so it is layered on acircular grid with various geometric shapes encircling the central spire andsurrounded by niches which once held stucco Buddha images, most of which arenow broken or vanished. Nonetheless, it remains an awe inspiring sight.

I must also thank, atthis point, all the other good natured people of Bihar who helped me find theright local bus or who gave me sound advice, directions or a friendly smilewhen I was wandering around like a lost firangi (European). I’m forevergrateful and with a special nod to those humble villagers who invited me in andbought a huge watermelon and chai for the occasion – amazing people!

Bahá'í Lotus Temple in Delhi

Delhi

I had always intendedthe final leg of my trip to have a special significance so I made it myprerogative to visit the National Museum of India where a portion of the LordBuddha’s relics are on full display for all the world to see. There, at thefoot of those whitened bones, I bowed one last time before taking my leave fromMother India and heading back towards the ‘land of gold’, or Suvarnabhumias it was known in ancient times; the area of Southeast Asia presently known asThailand whereI live and teach. Just before I did this I greatly wished to sit in quietcontemplation in the Bahá'í Lotus Temple in Delhi: a place to sit withpeople of all faiths and religious persuasions, a place to unite and pray asone; Muslims, Hindus, Christians, Buddhists et al. How I love India!

May peace prevail in the world

May we have the clarity in our hearts toovercome the defilements of mind and may the light of truth shine forth

May all livingbeings be well happy and peaceful

A Stay at Wat Pah Nanachat

2010-07-28T08:13:00.001-07:00

So there I was, after many years of reading stories and accounts, on the train towards Wat Pah Nanachat in Ubon Ratchatani Province, northeast Thailand. “It had been a long time coming” I thought to myself. Would it live up to the hype and expectations or would it just be another place, to at least try, to practice? My slight anxiety kept my mind ticking over imaginations of what it would be like whilst periodically being distracted by the ever more forested countryside we were now passing through.

On arrival at Ubon station, I quickly searched out a low cost guesthouse (with the aid of the holy book that is The Lonely Planet guide to Thailand) and settled down my things in my modest but perfectly adequate room; at 120 Baht per night (about £2.40) anything is perfectly adequate, and headed into the city centre to find food and explore the general scene. Following an interesting fair-type atmosphere in town (the infamous Ubon Candle Festival was building up momentum) I tuktuked back to the guesthouse and settled down for the night with a Dhamma book conveniently left by a previous postulant on his/her way to the wat; I think the same person had also drawn the likeness of the Buddha on the wooden wall beside me; I felt a connection with the process building up already.

I rose early Saturday morning, clad myself in the white long trousers and shirt a lay person traditionally dons for a temple stay and proceeded towards the monastery by motorbike taxi. Within 15 minutes or so, I was entering the monastery compound and sheepishly attempting to get someone’s attention over at the first wooden building I came upon. A lay woman kindly brought me to the guest monk Ajahn Asoka, a towering young man with warm-hearted eyes and a big grin, who then showed me my lodgings and informed me of monastery schedule/etiquette etc. He invited me to join in with the morning meal at 8am so I lay down my things, sat in meditation and awaited the bell signaling mealtime.

Shortly after the meal and formal chanting, I felt my time at the monastery had really begun. My roommate that morning was a young German kid visiting with his family on holiday though he left later that day and an 18 year old aspiring ethnomusicologist from the USA. We were to form a supportive bond throughout our stay.

At the wat, the first part of the schedule consists of chores so I wandered out with the intention of being assigned some job to do around the site. Much to my surprise, the first monk I inquired to about this suggested I go up onto the 15 metre high roof of the new vihara (Buddhist temple/wat) and paint the metal framework of the new construction. It was a very shaky affair and I was sweating copiously under the heat of the Thai sun. Nonetheless, I felt honored to be taking part in the construction of a new religious building, almost like “modern Cathedral building” to quote Ajahn Asoka. A few hours I spent there; it was surprisingly conducive to calm arising in the mind having to focus on my balance whilst seeking out unpainted under parts of the girders so I relished the opportunity to work mindfully.

The rest of the day I studied from the library of texts, spoke with my roommate Jeff and generally immersed myself in the quietude of the place; it was a welcome refuge from the high voltage atmosphere of the high school in Surin city! The nighttime brought the sound of many creatures (some in the forest some upon my very person!) along with the awkward pressures one gets from sleeping on a solid wood floor.

Rising at about 5am (the usual schedule being 3am; it was different due to the exhausting building work) we went to sweep the many pathways whilst awaiting the signal to join the monks on pindapat (alms round). What an experience! I have never witnessed such generosity from such a relatively poor community. It was such a joy to see these people on their knees, lining the village lanes with baskets of food held to their heads in anticipation of the Bhikkhus. This tradition has been going on, unbroken, for about 2600 years of Buddhist history; it really is a remarkable sight.

Bare-footed and in silence, we made our way back to the wat for the single meal of the day. Later that morning, I had the opportunity to speak with Ajahn Asoka about some of the many challenges facing the continued dissemination and practice of the Buddha-Sasana (the Buddhist religion) as well as my intentions to eventually ordain myself at some stage. It was an interesting discussion and one of the first times I felt at ease speaking about such matters openly and with someone who had first hand experience of it. I continued meditation practice in my dorm, wandered the forest for a while and was also invited into the kuti (monks individual dwelling) to speak with an elderly novice monk from Israel. He gave me such a profound teaching about monastery life; pointing out the importance of not having the view that entering the Sangha is like leaving the world but rather like learning to be a monastic within the world as it is already. His kuti was bare and unembellished, not like the monks dwellings I had seen in town wats; I new he was practicing in line with how the Buddha taught so long ago. A second night in the dorm brought with it a light rain and a sound nights sleep.

Refreshed and awake, I swept and went on alms round with the monks. It was now Sunday and the following day would be Asalha Puja, the full moon (Wan Phra) of the lunar month of Asalha, which commemorates the first teaching of the Buddha (the Dhammacakkapavattana Sutta; the setting in motion the wheel of Dhamma discourse) to the 5 ascetics he previously trained with at Benares (modern day Varanasi, India) prior to the awakening. Many lay people cam to offer food both on alms round and at the wat; we shared the meal and continued with our daily practice. I spent some time in the outside sala (an open sided pavilion used for Dhamma talks, meditation and group meetings etc). There is the skeleton of a young woman from a local village who had had bone cancer suspended in a glass cabinet. The Israeli monk, Ajahn Paññanando, informed me that she had killed herself and that in Thailand, anyone who commits suicide cannot be cremated so she was buried. A former abbot of Wat Pah Nanachat then requested to have her disinterred and display her remains in the monastery. Anyone who has a good knowledge of Buddhist teaching will know that this isn’t done in order to scare people or to encourage a morbid fascination with death, but rather to foster a contemplative approach to the impermanence of all things in particular of our own bodies. Beside the skeleton is also the preserved unborn foetus of a child. A stark reminder of the dukkha tied up in the process of birth and death.

We would take tea at about 4pm, usually the lay guests would sit together and as we were only 3, it was a subdued but enjoyable affair. My fellow tea drinkers were the American Jeff and a Russian layman who had been at the wat for the last three months, he is intending to ordain soon.

The next two days were very beautiful. So many people came to the wat for Asalha Puja Day and for the first day of the rains retreat (Khao Phansa) on Tuesday. The amount of food offered was incredible; tables had to be laid out outside the building just to be able to serve everything up efficiently. That night the lay English speaking guests had an audience with one of the senior monks in which we asked questions relating to the practice etc. They invited us to join them in the all night vigil (one of the dhutanga/ascetic practices allowed by the Buddha which they would hold over at the outside sala. I can honestly say it was challenging but a great support to developing mindfulness, especially through physical tiredness although the constant heavy rain cooled the air and made it very pleasant for staying awake; it really seemed like the rainy season had started right on que. It was such an honour to take part in that and an unforgettable experience. The night ended with morning chanting with the Thai lay people over at the main building, it can be very painful sat for so long after a night of meditation but somehow we managed to endure it and again joined the monks for morning almsround. A new lay man arrived from Hong Kong that morning so we explained the general routine and said our goodbyes to those we had been with throughout the stay with special reference to a kind and humble Laotian lady who was living indefinitely as a lay postulant at the wat.

I hope to return for many more visits.